West Africa is one of the most prominent exponents of Africa fashion to the world. There are many reasons for that, of course, but bubbling music and general entertainment industry is the major reasons for that. But most of all, it has a rich textile history and product to rely upon. West Africa is the region comprising countries such as Nigeria, Ghana, Ivory Coast and Senegal. Altogether, 16 countries make up the region and it is the most populated part of Africa.
The West African Textile Hub
For many centuries, West Africa has been one of the most prolific producers of textile, not just in Africa, but the world at large. Cotton, which grew in two major varieties, white and pale brown was produced in large quantities. From which yarn was also produced for spinning. Raffia and bast fibres were also sourced, while silk spun from wood were also made locally. As the activities of trade began to connect trans-Saharan and coastal areas to the world, imported textiles and fibres, particularly from the Dutch, quickly became popular throughout the region.
Ties, Dyes, and Designs,
Dyeing is a popular practice by which West African textiles were beautified. The locally produced indigo was the most popular dye used throughout the region. Some varieties of colour were also available from mineral and vegetable sources. A common practice was to use the dyes on the yarns before weaving. While in some areas, embroidery of woven textiles and sewn cloths were more common, this is usually the way it was done in the Lake Chad region and inland Niger delta of Mali.
Weaving practice in Nigeria
In Nigeria and some parts of Cameroon, women utilize an upright version of the heddle-rod and shed stick to weave both cotton and other yarns derivatives. While in parts of Southeast Nigeria, the Igbos in Akwete employ the use of a double-heddle loom.
It is common for the cloth to be woven in a long narrow strip of about 10cm, or broader. After the desired length is achieved, it is then cut into smaller pieces before to be sewn together along the edges. The intended designed by the weaver can be seen and appreciated more clearly only after this process.
Patterning and the Aso oke.
Patterning is an age-long practise in West Africa. There are several ways by which local designs were patterned. Warp striping is achieved by simply laying warps next to each other before looming. With the help of differently coloured warps, a recognizable pattern is can be achieved. These patterns are usually stimulating and can dazzle interested buyers who commonly try to figure out the elaborate designs.
One of the most popular products of the warp striping process is the Aso Oke, a style of traditional cloth that is common among the Yoruba tribe of southwestern Nigeria. Aso oke, which means “top-of-the-hill cloth” is woven in some of the major weaving towns in Yoruba land such as Ilorin and Ibadan.
The Ankara Cloth
Perhaps, the Ankara is the most popular and generally known clothing material outside Africa, particularly because of its wide usage by influential West African Country such as Nigeria, Ghana and Senegal. You would think the Ankara is from one of those countries, only it is not. It didn't originate from Africa!
Its true origin can be traced to Indonesia, formerly Dutch East Indies, where locals used wax-resist dying to create batik. During the 19th century, West African men who were drafted into the Dutch army in Indonesia brought this fabric as they returned to their home country.
The Indonesian batik became a major hit with West Africans. Soon enough, the Dutch started producing machine-made versions originally targeted at the Indonesian market. The locals didn’t find it as ‘perfect’ as the hand-made ones, so it flopped there. Forcing the Dutch to turn their attention to West Africa, who didn’t see anything wrong with the machine-made inspired Dutch versions.
Ever since, the West Africans have adopted the Indonesian-inspired fabric as if it were theirs. They are very colourful and beautiful, and can be tailored into dresses, skirts, shirts, trousers, blouse or simply used as wrappers.